I get in the water, passing all the white waters and the bigger waves...
I pass the last wave climbing on it, looking into the horizon with no waves left,
understanding that I'm finally on the line up.
I breath again, one and not the only one... then I look around,
other surfers are paddling are coming and going trough the sea.
Indy calls me and tells me to come near him, another break.
I wait a little while, then Indy shouts "Paddle, paddle, go! go! quickly! Stand up!"
...and I'm there, on the wave, pushing me toward the beach.
I feel tall... I feel big... I feel my feet grabing the board...
I pump and pump....
yeah I made it!!!!!!!
Simona
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